It's a question I get asked a lot, at weddings, parties and randomly as I try to make my way through speaking exercises in language class. Why did you come here? Will you go back? Why not?
Why
did I come here? Love, is the simple answer. The more complex answer is
probably better addressed with a question: why would you ask the love
of your life to move to a country that is falling apart; a country that
is the most surveilled nation on Earth, where the economy is stagnant,
at best, and that infuriating phrase "I'm sorry for any inconvenience
caused" is the answer to every problem.
Baffled faces stare back at me as I talk about the
reality of living in Britain. "But, when I stayed with my host family it
was great." is one reply. Of course it was, you were a guest and
everyone was on their best behaviour. Visiting a place and living there
are two very different propositions. A visit is finite and often enjoyed
with that holiday feeling. The visitor often leaves before culture
shock kicks in. The resident stays and lives through their culture
shock, allowing themselves to become a part of the fabric of their new
home.
“But Britain is a great democracy and you've got the
BBC!” is another answer. Democracies don't spy on their citizens, they
don't extradite them to foreign countries and as for the BBC, google the
name Jimmy Savile.
And then there are the middle aged British expat women whose expressions turn to mild horror when I say that I live in Chemnitz.
Chemnitz
has always had a rough deal. The first DDR leader Walther Ulbricht
changed the city's name to Karl-Marx-Stadt and made it the model of
Communist industrial ideals, i.e. dirty, grey and unimaginative. They
even concreted over the river Chemnitz to obliterate anything that spoke
of a life before Socialism. In April 1990 the people of Karl-Marx-Stadt
voted to reinstate the city's original name and today the river is
being restored to its original path through the centre of the city.
Like all cities Chemnitz has beautiful parts and
less desirable parts; there is commerce and there are areas of
post-industrial emptiness. In Britain I couldn't leave the house without
my iPod and headphones to drown out the constant cacophony of life on a
crowded island. Here, I can walk through the city without headphones if
I want to and, standing in the main square on days when the market
isn't there, I can hear the sound of shoes on cobblestone and church
bells. I also walk upright because I know I am not under constant
surveillance. I can ride my bike on the roads here without fear of
losing life or limb at the hands of needlessly aggressive drivers -
something I never felt happy doing in Britain. Riding for 40 minutes in
any direction will take you into the countryside. There is also an
Olympic size swimming pool, while some towns in Britain don't have a
pool at all. Prague and Berlin are two hours away and if I want to ski,
the Erzgebirge (Ore Mountains, if you wish to be Tolkien about it) are
30 minutes away. Gangs of youths don't roam around with menace, in fact,
young people will say hello to you. I was leaving my building laden
with luggage one morning and sitting outside the front door were two
teenage girls. Cue the sudden sense of foreboding I've been conditioned
to feel at the sight of teenagers, but before I can finish my thought,
one of the girls asks me if I needed any help. I had to hide me
astonishment because teenage girls don't behave that way in Britain.
I watch the faces of these middle aged British
expats as I recount the above and realise that, while the city I live in
has made the best of itself since reunification, it's reputation hasn't
changed. “Oh, it's so dreary”, says one lady in that withering manner I
don't miss at all. No, places without employment are dreary, where
everyone is scared of everyone else and people would rather seethe about
foreigners taking their jobs than actually fix the problems that
brought their country to its knees.
So, why would a Brit leave Britain? Because there is
love and peace and stability in this small corner of Saxony. Isn't that
what everybody wants?
Marie-Paule Graham writes "Adventures in Waldiland" [waldiland.blogspot.de] and tweets @mpg4.
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